Milan Fashion Week: review of the Spring/Summer 2025 collections
Another incredible fashion week has just come to an end and Milan is ready to draw conclusions on what designers have brought to the stage. In a panorama that seems increasingly in search of a compass by which to interpret the current times, the most arduous challenge, for designers, appears without a shadow of a doubt to be that of remaining poised between creativity and the demands of the market, which demands, first and foremost, reassurance.
Kim Jones at Fendi seems to be clinging to the latter. The opening show had as its soundtrack the voices of the progenitors Silvia and Anna as they spoke of Adele, the one who first gave birth to a matriarchal fashion dynasty. Yet the revolutionary force of thought and words is in fact translated, on the catwalk, into a fashion show of neutral, muted colours: with soft shades ranging from beige to white with clean, quiet lines.
Decidedly more lively and out of the chorus is the voice of Miuccia Prada who, with Raf Simons, brings to the stage a space voyage in the true sense of the word, where metallic fabric is the protagonist. Among the most popular details are dresses with silver eyelets, steel-toed shoes and stiffened bows. In an unexpected turn towards a retro and less provocative universe, Donatella Versace: amidst cardigans and fluttering floral patterns, the brat girl of fashion turns unexpectedly demure, surprising fans and insiders alike.
Under the eyes of a front row of excellence, with Jannik Sinner, Jin of BTS and Dakota Johnson in the front row, Sabato De Sarno‘s collection for Gucci paraded: perhaps the most warmly received so far since his debut at the helm of the brand. Silhouettes are inspired by the Sixties to the tune of “Non voglio mica la luna” and intense, bewitching colours dominate the scene. Celebrating ten years of catwalk shows, twenty collections and ever greater successes, Bologna-based designer Elisabetta Franchi plays with romanticism and sensuality in her spring/summer 2025 looks.
With precious fabrics and daring cuts, blazers worn as mini-dresses and mischievous necklines, the show was closed by two wedding dresses with lace and veil, as if anticipating the brand’s brand new Bridal collection for Pronovias. Instead, Matthieu Blazy‘s proposal for Bottega Veneta looked to the Seventies and Eighties with oversized jackets and artistic geometries. Among the new talents, The Attico, by the Tordini-Ambrosio duo, and Rocco Iannone for Ferrari garnered applause and consensus.
Ph: Rob Oo, CC BY 2.0 , via Flickr – This photo is an excerpt of the original