Summary of the SS25 Milan and Paris fashion shows

Fashion weeks always bring with them reflections on the times we live in and how designers interpret our contemporaneity. A few days after the conclusion of the Milan and Paris fashion shows, it is time to put a magnifying glass on what awaits us in the upcoming spring/summer collections.

Amongst the pleasant confirmations we find Adrian Appiolaza, at his second fashion show at the head of Moschino, who brought to the stage the irony and irreverence typical of the brand by catapulting the spectators inside an imaginary lost property office. Among pizzas, balls and watermelons that become clutches, blazers decorated with work objects and post-it notes on jackets, lost and found objects take on new uses and meanings: a true hymn to creative freedom.

Among the brands animating Galleria Cavour, Prada undoubtedly shines. The fashion show put on by Miuccia and Raf Simons shows how a piece of clothing can turn us all into superheroes. On the cyber-passerelle parade energetic and vital creations: belts almost suspended like orbits and futuristic sunglasses. The fashion house’s modern heroes also include painters such as Bernard Buffet, whose works stand out on t-shirt prints that are sure to become iconic.

Bologna is once again the protagonist of this fashion week thanks to Magliano and confirms itself as the cradle of emerging talents and a city capable of inspiring and influencing new trends. The designer brings a modern fairytale to the stage with creations that dig deep into the 2000s, as recalled by the shoe symbol of the fashion show: the new Effe 10 shoe. In Paris, however, it is Pharrell Williams who enchants with a breathtaking show in the garden of the Unesco headquarters. Louis Vuitton presented a dandy citizen of the world through the trunks and globe bags, the exotic references of the pixelated python print and the country ones of the leather jackets.

Another highly spectacular fashion show was that of Rick Owens, who abandoned his much-loved black to immerse himself in an epic narrative where it is white that dominates the scene: with two hundred models wrapped in tunics, drapes and maxi-skirts. In general, what emerges from the men’s fashion weeks is the desire to re-embrace values of hope, joy and dialogue between distant worlds (sometimes even only imaginary ones) in relation to a topicality that too often tells us of a precarious and restless present.