
The Man to Come: FW25 Collections hit the runway in Milan and Paris
Fashion reflects society, and in historically uncertain times, it tries to anticipate both the future and its answers. Designers, amidst the frenetic succession of fashion weeks—particularly in Milan and Paris—aim to portray “the man to come,” presenting their personal visions and collections on the runway. On one hand, it has become clear that gender distinctions are increasingly obsolete, with men and women freely borrowing from each other’s wardrobes and drawing mutual inspiration. On the other hand, a proud dandy style is re-emerging, characterized by emblematic elements of traditional masculinity: ties, structured blazers, and elegant suits. This apparent contradiction finds its common thread in refinement and tailoring.
Dolce & Gabbana pays homage to the art of dressing well with a show titled “Paparazzi”, as if to suggest that we are all, in dressing, constantly under the lens of photographers or our own smartphones. Balancing between “La Dolce Vita” and digital voyeurism, their collection parades impeccable coats, tuxedos, and pleated trousers. In these restless times, Prada invites us to prioritize comfort and free ourselves from the constraints of reason. There is freedom in combining textures, wearing floral brooches, oversized leather bags, or colorful cowboy boots.
For Zegna, exclusivity is the key word: 50 top clients were given the chance to immediately purchase items seen on the runway just hours before, bypassing the usual wait for the boutique release next season. A unique experience, embodying the “everything, right now” ethos that defines contemporary desires. Alessandro Sartori has thus broken one of the last remaining barriers: that of time.
In Paris, the collaboration between Pharrell Williams and Nigo for Louis Vuitton makes waves. Under the gaze of a stellar front row led by Bradley Cooper and Adrian Brody, the contemporary dandy—or more precisely, the “dude”—takes the Louvre runway. This man is refined, blurring the lines between streetwear and tailoring, as well as between East and West, all in pursuit of community approval. Pink becomes a standout color of the collection, featuring lobster-shaped bags, oversized shirts paired with baggy shorts, and baseball caps adorned with Asian-inspired embroidery.
A special mention goes to Kim Jones, who, at the end of his Paris show, received the prestigious Légion d’Honneur from Anna Wintour herself. For Dior, his man draws inspiration from the silhouette of the “H Line”, conceived by the maison’s founder. This design accentuates a low waistline with a belt mimicking the horizontal bar of the letter H, cinching the hips and elongating the legs. Some models, appearing blindfolded, showcased a masterful play of contrasts, alternating matte and shiny materials, plunging necklines and high collars, military blazers and dressing gowns.
Thus, to answer the market’s questions today, designers look to the past, seeking to update their archives. The FW25 collections might just remind us of this: without a past, there can be no future.