GC Magazine - Galleria Cavour

The new Prada femininity: minimalist and rigorous

28 February - 2023

Prada FW 23

To the tune of Johann Strauss, Prada turns the spotlight on the autumn-winter collection presented at Milan Fashion Week at its own artistic foundation, set up, for the occasion, as a surrealist roof garden.

The brand once again embraces a rigorous and immediately distinguishable aesthetic, capable of redefining the rules of what is commonly considered beautiful. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons present to the public a new reworking of the concept of simplicity inspired by uniforms. Thus, immaculate white dresses descend on the catwalk that recall the uniforms of nurses: shirts, suits and short trains.

Every kind of affectedness disappears: overalls that recall technical clothing alternate with more formal choices. The show, in the eyes of the most expert, almost appears as a careful analysis of European current affairs: fashion, in fact, tells the story of today’s society and tries to outline paths and perspectives. Between parkas and rigorous lines, however, there is still room for escape and a confident and courageous femininity: miniskirts, voluminous skirts and semi-rigid bags are appreciated.

Even the wedding dress, which is the uniform par excellence that society has given to the image of women, then becomes an inspiration to overturn the rules and tell the story of the new contemporary femininity. In the inevitable palette, beige, deep blue and military green predominate.
The collection seems to move in a perennial balance between the two great philosophies of fashion: telling reality or providing a spectacular escape.
Although both stylists prefer the first vision, because they are convinced that everyday elegance should dress and not amaze, romantic and dreamy elements still appear such as flashes of red or candid floral decorations. In the front row, highly photographed, the symbolic faces of the maison and its most beloved ambassadors such as Cai Xukun, Maya Hawke, Charli d’Amelio, Claire Foy and Hunter Schafer appear.

They too, like us, have admired the latest Prada creations which will soon be available in boutiques ready to enchant the public as has just happened at Milan Fashion Week.